![]() ![]() Thanks for reading all of this, I know it' long but I tried to be clear.īTW- yes this is also posted on surplus rifle forum but I haven't rec'd any responses to my inquiry. What should I do if anything? I'm thinking brass or beer can shims under the tang after I wick some of the thinnest cyanoacrilate into the crack to stabilize that. (I have no tang action markings here, I suspect my tang underside was ground down to remove the original markings) I suspect that this force applied to the 45 degree angle flats might act as a wedge further splitting the wood. Also when I tighten the rear action screw (after the front is well snugged) I get about a full turn of the rear screw with the screw head drawing down the tang under tension. I tried slipping paper down between there and it's bound tight in that area. stock types: war wartime with rounded finger-joints, trans transitional with pointed finger-joints, post postwar with squared finger-joints. To ensure proper depth for drilling, the tool bit was placed along side for the length of the crack. With the stock clamped to close the crack, I began with a smaller 3/16' bit which enabled me to better locate a starter hole for the larger bit. I now have a bit of a gap around the tang like I'm used to on M1903 springfields.īUT.I'm also finding that my receiver may not be resting on the rear tang but on the two 45 deg angle receiver flats in the vicinity of the rear action screw. I selected a 5/16' dowel, and purchased a decent wood clamp and long shank 5/16' drill bit. I relieved the wood from that area to give a little clearance. I suspect that was the main cause of the crack. It was bound up hard against wood inletting. In my investigation I found that the vertical crack started at the tang where the tang starts to round after the straight shank section and worked it's way the the shooter's left at about a 25deg angle. The rifle is a "as new" refurb Sako in a new stock with round lobed joinery and the full pistol grip and doesn't look like it was issued judging from a few crate looking knocks/gouges and pristine unsanded/dry stock look. I was quite saddened to see that after a few shots. I have a "new" M39 that I shot with some bulgy heavy ball and my like new stock cracked rearward from the tang area. For that matter I’d settle for a base model mosin stock to try and keep it somewhat original but I think there is a thicker barrel on the Finnish models. ![]()
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